BETTA SALE 2011 !!!

BELOW Are All bettas from my recent spawned,History background of this fish can be seen at eddy's bettas spawn log


Green Turquise Male (4.5 Month)


Female Turquise (4.3 Month)


Full Masked Royal Blue (4.2 Month)


Masked Female Royal Blue


Masked Green Female (4.2 month)


Blue Lace Crowntail plakat (Female 4 month)


Bi colour Female (4.3 month)

Interested can call me or sms via this num 019-3832449
posting charge:Rm 15.00 (syrofoam box + max 4 fish + pos laju)

How to make your own frozen dahpnia

daphnia is hard to get and to get a consistent supplies everyday for ur betta is quite tiring as not many local fish store(malaysia)sell daphnia .so thebest way is to buy it in bulk and froze it into cube sizes.below the step by step on how i do my own frozen daphnia.


[ a set of cups for the mould]


[ life Daphnia]


cut into





[frozen daphnia]


[here you get 3 layer of dahnia cubes-total cup in one container=15cups=1 week feeding=twice a day]

Story About Fancy Betta ....

In This post we will talk all about Fancy Bettas.Since ths colour is quite new and unique in the bettas scene why not we expose on how they are created in such colour:

Why Fancy Bettas:
When a betta have more than 3 and more colour on its body ,then they are consider as Fancy (quote by Mr Ai Funky)

Fancy bettas have a wide range colour patterns:

-MG pattern
-Marbles
-Multicolours
-Koi pattern
-Stripe pattern
-Monster
-lace pattern

Below are some pic that describe few of the pattern stated above:


[Fancy01-taken from aquabid.com]


[Fancy02-taken from aquabid.com]


[Fancy03-taken from aquabid.com]


[Fancy04-taken from aquabid.com]


[Fancy05-taken from aquabid.com]


[Fancy06-taken from aquabid.com]


[Fancy07-taken from aquabid.com]


[Fancy08-taken from aquabid.com]


[Fancy09-taken from aquabid.com]

Here among Fancy player in Malaysia .peep cal him "Fancy King" .Mr Suzairi Ai or so call Bro Ai Funky





[One of his best fancy creation ]


[His Fancy spawn]



will continue soon

The Mr Cleaner -[ Apple Snail]

Ampullariidae, common name the apple snails, is a family of large freshwater snails, aquatic gastropod mollusks with a gill and an operculum. This family is in the superfamily Ampullarioidea and is the type family of that superfamily.

The Ampullariidae are unusual because they have both a gill and a lung, the mantle cavity being divided in order to separate the two types of respiratory structures. This adaptation allows these snails to be amphibious.


Feeding habits

In captivity, as well as eating vegetables and fish food pellets, apple snails will also eat other foods if they are available. They will sometimes eat brine shrimps and other frozen foods, or dead fish and insects. Generally, they will also eat any of the microscopic vegetation that grow on the tank rocks or walls. Snails will climb out of the water to reach food that is above the waterline. Because of their ability to do this they have become a nuisance in Asia, where they feed on crops.

Times of activity

In captivity, apple snails are most active at night. During the day they usually retreat to somewhere shaded. When it is night time, the apple snail becomes active and engages in behaviors relating to feeding, as well as mating and laying eggs.

In an aquarium that is well-lit, the exterior of the shell of apple snails may grow filamentous green algae. This is one possible source of food for juvenile snails.

Temperature

The optimal aquarium water temperature for apple snails is between 18 to 28 °C (64 to 82 °F). Apple snails are more active and lively in the higher part of this temperature range. In these higher temperatures, the snails tend to eat, crawl and grow faster. At the lower end of the temperature range, 18 °C/64 °F, the snails may become inactive.


Here colour of apple snail that i used to have:


[yellow-orange apple snail (i got it free from ikano petstore just ask them )]


[Black-brown apple snail]


[love this colour but hard to get it here]

[Why Do You need an apple snail in ur Betta tank]

-clean all the waste food at the tank floor
-will make the water condition in the fry tank less polluted from oxidixation of food waste
-fast cleaner espcially when in come to large group (easy to mutiply)
-sometimes act as a decoration in ur tank
-will eat dead fries and make the water less polluted

Plakat Types + Defination

Taken from Mekobetta.blogspot
originally Taken from ; www.bettasocietymalaysia.com.my ; Dan from the IBC

Betta Anatomy Diagram

Taken from Mekobetta.blogspot
originally Taken from : www.bettasocietmalaysia.com.my
By : Siti Nur Ainul Mardhiah binti Muhammad Khairulnizam

Common Illness for ur Bettas

Common Illnesses

Part of being a good fish keeper is learning how to recognize unnatural behaviors. If your betta is acting strangely, chances are that there is a problem somewhere in your aquarium. Being able to identify odd behavior is the first step in disease prevention. The following list of abnormal betta behaviors will alert you to a potential problem:

1. Scratching itself on the tank.
2. Normally active but now moving slowly or not at all
3. Floating upside down or swimming sideways
4. Floating to the top or struggling to rise from the gravel
5. A bloated look
6. Refusing to eat
7. Visible damage on it’s fins, eyes or scales
8. Spots or patches that you have never seen before
9. Hanging around all day
10. Fins continuously clamped shut

If you notice any of these problems, check your aquarium conditions immediately.

Common Illnesses

* Fungus

Occurrence : Very common
Symptoms : White growths on the body that is fluffy in appearance. These growths can also be found on the fin areas.
Cause : The fungus attacks regions where the mucus or slime coating on the fish has worn off because of damage by parasites or injury. Fungus is generally the Saprolegnia and Achlya species
Treatment : Spot treat with gentian violet or methylene blue; use aquarium fungicide in extreme cases.

* Mouth Fungus

Occurrence : Infrequent
Symptoms : Cotton-like growths around the mouth or patchy-white skin
Cause : Usually Saprolegnia species, occurring after other infection has set in.
Treatment : Commercial fungus treatment or methylene blue.

* Intestinal Parasites

Occurrence : Infrequent
Symptoms : Worms showing through the vent; emaciation.
Cause : Different varieties of intestinal worms.
Treatment : Standard fungus cure or a prescribed anthelminthic given in the diet. Add 1 table-spoon of aquarium salt for each 5 gallons of water to help with osmoregulation. Change 10 percent of the water daily.

* Swim Bladder Disease

Occurrence : Infrequent
Symptoms : Abnormal swimming patterns or loss of balance
Cause : Bacterial infection, physical injury to swim bladder from fighting or during transportation from dealer, poor water quality.
Treatment : Treat with an antibiotic in a clean, shallow tank. Change water frequently.

* Fin Rot

Occurrence : Very common.
Symptoms : Inflamed rays; thorn, ragged or disintegrating fins.
Causes : Either poor water quality or fin injury is the main cause of this disease, a highly contagious bacterial infection that can completely erode the finds and tail all the way down to the body. Fin rot is frequently followed by a secondary fungal infection.
Treatment : Spot treat infected areas with gentian violet. Add 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt for each 5 gallons of water to help with osmoregulation. Frequent water changes are necessary to help improve your beta’s condition.

* Pop Eye

Occurrence : Infrequent.
Symptoms : Inflamed eyes protruding from their sockets. Often the eye will develop a haze that is white in color. Inflamed eye sockets are also common.
Causes : Parasites or poor environmental conditions.
Treatment : The only thing that you can do to help your betta overcome pop eye is to improve the aquarium’s water conditions with frequent changes and add 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt per 5 gallons of water to help with osmoregulation. Check water conditions with test kits to ensure that they remain within the correct range.

* Velvet

Occurrence : Very common.
Symptoms : A golden-velvet or gray-colored coating on the body or fin areas. Your betta will look like it has been sprinkled with gold dust.
Cause : Oodinium parasite. The adult parasites will attach themselves to your betta and then fall off after period of about one week. These parasites will sink down and begin to multiply. The new parasites are then released into the water and will reinfect the fish in your aquarium. If the parasites cannot find a living host within a period of about three days, they will die.
Treatment : Commercial malachite green remedy. Add 1 table spoon of aquarium salt for each 5 gallons of water.

* Ich

Occurrence : Very common.
Symptoms : The appearance, on the body or fins, of small white spots that resemble little grains of salt. Fish that are infected with ich will scratch themselves during the advanced stages of this disease.
Cause : Ichthyopthirius parasite. Adult parasites will fall off the host, sink to the bottom of the tank, and multiply. New parasites will be released to find another host.
Treatment : Commercial ich remedies (formalin or malachite green). If the afflicted betta is removed to a quarantine tank, the main aquarium’s water must still be treated to kill of the remaining free-swimming parasites.

* Bacterial Septicemia

Occurrence : Infrequent.
Symptoms : Blood streaks appear on the fins and body. Other symptoms include hemorrhages, listlessness and refusal to eat. This disease usually occurs after a fish has been afflicted with fin rot or skin infections.
Cause : Pseudomonas or Streptococcus bacteria.
Treatment: Antibacterial Furan2 or Triple Sulfa. Change the water every 24 hours.

* Tuberculosis

Occurrence : Infrequent
Symptoms: Dull-colored body, clamped fins, weight loss, ulcers, and pop eye in some cases.
Causes : Bacterial disease that is highly contagious. WARNING! This disease can be transferred to humans through contact with the infected areas.
Treatment : There is really no effective treatment of this disease and in my opinion is not worth risking your own health in order to try any remedy. Strict care must be used when handling infected animals! Plastic gloves are recommended when removing the infected betta from the aquarium. A betta that has this disease should be euthanized IMMEDIATELY.

* Fish Lice

Occurrence : Infrequent
Symptoms : Disk-shaped parasites can be found attached to the skin of the betta. Ulcers can be sighted near the point of parasitic attachment. Bacterial or fungus problems may follow.
Cause : Crustacean parasite. After feeding on the skin, the adult parasite will leave its host and lay gelatin-like capsules full of eggs. Often the eggs will not hatch until the temperature rises, and may stay in the tank for long periods of time.
Treatment : Remove the parasites from the betta with a pair of small tweezers. Dab any wounds using cotton swab that has been dipped in Mercurochrom. Remove water from the tank and sterilize all the things in it. Unfortunately, the only real way to correct this disease problem is to start a new tank.

* Gill Parasites

Occurrence : Infrequent.
Symptoms : Labored respiration, scratching, glazed eyes and loss of motor control.
Cause : Flukes (Dactylogyrus).
Treatment : Sterazin

* Slime Disease

Occurrence : Very common
Symptoms : A gray coating on the body or fins, scratching, frayed fins and shimmying.
Causes : Costia, Cyclochaeta or Chilodonella parasites
Treatment : Commercial remedy of malachite green and frequent water changes. Short-term formalin and salt baths will help as well.

* Dropsy

Occurrence : Very infrequent
Symptoms : Swollen body, protruding scales, bloated eyes
Cause : Organ failure from cancer or poor environmental conditions.
Treatment : Antibacterial should be given through medicated food. Improvement of water quality through water changes will help to clear up this disease. Full recovery from dropsy is rare.

* Constipation

Occurrence : Very common
Symptoms : Poor appetite, swollen stomach region, inactivity.
Cause : Incorrect diet, overfeeding
Treatment : Fast your betta for several days. Add 1/2 teaspoon of magnesium per gallon. Change your betta’s diet to live food for several weeks.


Taken from mekobettas.blogspot

Edited from the book - THE BETTA by Mic and Maddy Hargrove

originally from ; www.bettasocietmalaysia.com.my ; Aaron Foo